Tank of ornamental goldfish at Kingyozaka's fish shop, Ueno, Yanesen & Komagome.

©Rebecca Milner/Lonely Planet

Kingyozaka

Ueno & Yanesen

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We've seen a lot of cafe mashups on our travels but this might just be the only ornamental goldfish breeder-cum-cafe around. Kingyozaka (the name means 'goldfish slope') has some serious history: it's been in the ornamental fish business for some 350 years. The charming timber-framed cafe, serving Japanese-style curry, coffee, tea and cakes, is a more recent addition.

You can try your hand at fishing some of the small ornamental carp (adult/child per 30 minutes ¥700/500) or scooping up goldfish in paper nets (¥200 per net) – a popular carnival game. No, you don't get to keep them.

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