Nakajima

In the evening, Nakajima serves exquisite kaiseki (Japanese haute cuisine) dinners. On weekdays, it also serves a set lunch of humble iwashi (sardines) for one-tenth the price; in the hands of Nakajima’s chefs, they’re divine. The line for lunch starts to form shortly before the restaurant opens at 11.30am. Look for the white sign at the top of the stairs.