Display of manekineko (beckoning cats) at jazz bar Samurai, Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo.

©Rebecca Milner/Lonely Planet

Samurai

Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo


Never mind the impressive record collection, this eccentric jazz kissa (cafe where jazz records are played) is worth a visit just for the owner's overwhelming collection of 2500 maneki-neko (beckoning cats). Running for over 40 years, it's a slice of old bohemian Shinjuku. It's polite to keep voices low, to appreciate the music.

It's on the alleyway alongside the highway, with a small sign on the front of the building. There's a ¥300 cover charge (¥500 after 9pm); drinks from ¥650.


Lonely Planet's must-see attractions

Nearby Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo attractions

1. Hanazono-jinja

0.3 MILES

Merchants from nearby Kabukichō come to this Shintō shrine to pray for the solvency of their business ventures. Founded in the 17th century, the shrine is…

2. Golden Gai

0.33 MILES

Golden Gai – a Shinjuku institution for over half a century – is a collection of tiny bars, often literally no bigger than a closet and seating maybe a…

3. Mode Gakuen Cocoon Tower

0.33 MILES

This Nishi-Shinjuku landmark building (completed in 2008) is a 50-storey webbed tower designed by Tange Associates. Easily identifiable among the blockier…

4. Godzilla Head

0.36 MILES

Godzilla, a portmanteau of the Japanese words for gorilla (gorira) and whale (kujira), is king of the kaijū (strange beasts) that ruled Japanese popular…

5. Shinjuku-gyoen

0.46 MILES

Shinjuku-gyoen was designed as an imperial retreat (completed 1906); since opening to the public in 1951, it has become a favourite destination for…

6. Shinjuku I-Land

0.57 MILES

This otherwise ordinary office complex is home to more than a dozen public artworks, including one of Robert Indiana’s LOVE sculptures (on the southeast…

7. Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building

0.6 MILES

Tokyo's city hall – a landmark building designed by Tange Kenzō – has observatories (202m) atop both the south and north towers of Building 1 (the views…

8. Place M

0.61 MILES

Run by four veteran artists (including pioneering street photographer Daido Moriyama), this gallery serves as a hub for the city's photography scene…