Display of manekineko (beckoning cats) at jazz bar Samurai, Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo.

©Rebecca Milner/Lonely Planet

Samurai

Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo


Never mind the impressive record collection, this eccentric jazz kissa (cafe where jazz records are played) is worth a visit just for the owner's overwhelming collection of 2500 maneki-neko (beckoning cats). Running for over 40 years, it's a slice of old bohemian Shinjuku. It's polite to keep voices low, to appreciate the music.

It's on the alleyway alongside the highway, with a small sign on the front of the building. There's a ¥300 cover charge (¥500 after 9pm); drinks from ¥650.