Maximise your Japan experience by shacking up at this rambling traditional lodge in an 80-year-old building. Rooms have tatami floors, sliding paper doors and futons; bathrooms are shared, along corridors of highly-polished wood. The downsides: an 11pm curfew (midnight at the latest if you call ahead) and a 5% credit card fee.
From the south exit of Ogikubo Station, head left and walk along the track; turn right at the second traffic light and look for the ochre stucco walls of the inn on your left.
