Agaru Sagaru Nishi-iru Higashi-iru

This chill little restaurant serves Kyoto-style food (deceptively simple, with the ingredients – always seasonal – taking centre stage) without pretense. The five-dish course (¥3500) – presented in succession and prettily plated – is perfect for when you want to indulge, but not too much. (The seven-dish course requires advance reservations.) Also, it looks like a cave.