With its cluster of private rooms and regulars' personal whisky bottles kept on the shelves, Tensui has a local vibe, but it has happily embraced the trickle of overseas travellers passing though on the Kumano Kodō. The proprietress is quite proud of her reasonably priced o-tsukuri teishoku (sashimi set meal; ¥1500) and tempura teishoku (¥1200).
Look for the black-lattice facade across from the Kishū inn.