Shima-no-tabemonoya Paikaji

This Ishigaki city favourite serves all the Okinawan and Yaeyama standards. The boisterous atmosphere and kitchen get top marks, although smokers detract from the experience. Try the ikasumi chahan (squid-ink fried rice; ¥700), gōyā champurū (¥750) or sashimi moriawase (sashimi assortment; depending on size ¥750/1300/1800). Look for the traditional front, with coral around the entryway and a red-and-white sign.