Remote, rustic and supremely photogenic, this lodging is one of Japan's finest onsen ryokan, with a stunning 1896 wooden bathhouse. From Gokan Station (two stops before Minakami), take a bus to Sarugakyō (¥1100, 40 minutes), then change to an infrequent bus for Hōshi Onsen (¥600, 15 minutes). Otherwise take a taxi (¥3000).
Bathing for nonguests is also available (¥1000; 10.30am to 1.30pm Thursday to Tuesday).