Togakushi has no English menu, but any difficulties this may present are worth it for the delicate, thin kama-age udon (barrel-boiled wheat noodles; ¥650), for dipping in a tangy negi (green onion) sauce, tempura-ko (tempura crispies) and refreshing yuzu (Japanese citron); pour the water from the noodles into the sauce to make soup. This is what locals crave after a bender.
Look for the giant red lantern in front of the traditional house.