Chikin nanban (sweet fried chicken with tartar sauce; pictured on the menu) was invented here in 1961, and crowds still flock to this no-frills shop under a red-and-white awning, in the alley behind Yamakataya Department Store. There are also riffs on curry rice and tonkatsu; the 'business set' (¥1010) is a half-order each of chikin nanban and a hamburger steak.
For shorter queues, try the larger, kitsch-filled sister shop, Family Ogura Segashira.