Marutora Ikka

This happy spot is festooned with an eclectic collection of Shōwa-period pop-culture memorabilia. It's where young Japanese come to hang out over a few rounds of beer and plates of comfort food such as bite-size black-pork hitokuchi-gyōza (10 pieces for ¥350). Look for the dark wooden street frontage and staircase leading upstairs, down the block from the 7-Eleven.