Far from the crowds, the friendly husband-and-wife team here have been making spicy Hiroshima-yaki for years. There are only a few tables, but the long bar is where the action is; dig into satisfying layers of cabbage, soba (buckwheat noodles) and crispy squid with a metal spatula, straight off the hotplate. Vegetarian (ベジタリアン) available by request.
It's next to the train line; look for the green awning and yellow lanterns.
