Opposite Fukuji-Onsen-shimo bus stop, the entrance to Yumoto Chōza is reached by a rustic covered walkway, as if to take you back in time. Bold, dark woods punctuate the handsome traditional architecture. Half of the 32 rooms have en suites and irori (fireplaces), and there are five indoor baths and two stunning rotemburo (outdoor baths). Reservations essential.
Day visitors can bathe between 2pm and 6pm for ¥750.