Kanazawa Todoroki-tei

The art-deco, woody, candelit atmosphere of this Western-style bistro near Higashi-chaya-gai is a big selling point. The Taisho-era (1912–26) building with vaulted ceilings is a little rough around the edges, but that's part of its charm: it's not too snooty. Eight-course dinners are good value, starting at ¥3500 per person.