Antica Osteria La Guercia

In a 15th-century backstreet building off Piazza del Popolo, this old-school trattoria is straight out of central casting with its timber beams, exposed brick and rough wooden tables. It's all just right for a meal of no-nonsense regional fare – chickpea soup with clams and pasta squares, roast pork and potatoes, and cheese with fig marmalade.