Part cafe, restaurant, cultural space and gourmet supermarket, trendy Umbrò occupies the former Ospedale di Santa Maria della Misericordia, one of the world's oldest hospitals (dating to 1305). It's Perugia's best (and least touristy) spot to pick up locally sourced black truffles, wine and olive oils.
It's also good for a bite to eat from a deli counter that's 100% Umbrian.