Street food connoisseurs flock to Testone for torta al testa, Umbria's thick and savoury flat-bread pies. These are cooked in a traditional way that dates back to Etruscan times: on a coal-fired cast-iron plate called a testo, complete with a coating of fiery ashes (don't worry, they shake them off before serving).
Choose your dough (classic, wholewheat, etc) and stuff it with up to three ingredients (chard with sausage is a popular choice). Testone means 'big head' or 'stubborn' in Italian – and that's what you'll be if you try to eat one all by yourself. Share with a friend!