Pastificio Chiesa

Livorno


In business since 1969, this family pastificio crafts fresh pasta to cook at home or eat in, at bar stools inside the Mercato Centrale. A B&W photograph of grandmother Giuseppina hangs on the wall; and parents Roberto and Salvatorica serve behind the counter, while charismatic son Valerio chit-chats with faithful regulars.

Count on €5 to €7 for a lunchtime plate of the day's pasta special with pesto, ragù or tomato sauce. The family business also, bizarrely, makes luxurious tortelli (type of pasta cushion) filled with 24-carat gold leaf and lobster or black truffle. A single tortello weighs 15g and costs €250. Watch them being made in the glass-walled kitchen adjoining their small shop in the market.


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