Alimentari Poli Roberto

Across from the old city gate, sacks of beans, chickpeas, walnuts and porcini sit outside this grocer's shop – the chestnut beer, beer made from locally grown farro (spelt), farro-encrusted pecorino (sheep's milk cheese) and honey are prerequisites for any respectable Garfagnana picnic, as is castagnaccio (chestnut cake) and biroldo (a type of pork salami spiced with wild fennel).