This traditional trattoria, just off central Piazza Palestro, is the place to feast on crostini caldi con lardo (warm toasts topped with lardo), deliciously paired with caramised figs, capers and white onion rings perhaps, or mustard. The €15 lunch menu comprising a lardo dish plus a primo (first course) or dessert, water and coffee, is excellent value.
Locanda Apuana
Northwestern Tuscany