Locals rave about this tiny family-run trattoria on Cathedral Sq, aptly called 'By Auntie' and with an inviting 'Cibo e Vino' (food and wine) strapline. Cuisine is strictly local, with plenty of traditional, potato-filled tordelli (square pasta cushions, larger than ravioli) and sweet torta di riso (rice cake) plumping out the handwritten menu.
Dishes like cocoa pappardelle with pear and gorgonzola inject a touch of creative spice. Reservations recommended.