Perched on a hillock above chestnut and walnut forests, this is an iconic address every local foodie knows about. Hidden at the back of the village bar, it has no printed menu. Listen to what's cooking that day and take your pick from homemade pasta and sauces cooked up daily by chef Giovanni. Game is particularly big and side dishes are creative.
To get to Vico Pancellorum from Bagni di Lucca, head 9km northeast along the scenic SS12 towards Abetone and at the northern end of Ponte Coccia take the sharp turning on the left signposted 'Vico Pancellorum'; the restaurant is another 3km from here, at the foot of the hamlet, along a steep, narrow, curving road. Advance reservations are essential.