While the low-beamed ceiling and deep drapery give a traditional vibe, the staff here deliver a dining experience full of new ideas and local flavours. Diners are welcomed with an amuse-bouche (perhaps a deer-and-yoghurt mousse) and house-made breads – milk and potato, spelt, and seeded.
Primi such as chestnut tagliatelle in a hare, chickpea and hazelnut ragù, or coffee tortellini stuffed with pork and prunes, are followed by equally inventive secondi such as crunchy potato-crusted fish with an olive-fennel purée. Wines are well chosen and, of course, local.
