Andrea Fenoglio is one of the region's best-loved chefs and his big personality fills this small early 20th-century room. The food here is inventive, for sure, but the experience is warm and refreshingly relaxed. Even the most experimental dish retains a connection to the traditional, or what Fenoglio calls 'memory food'.
Up to 20 wines are available by the glass, a pleasure if you're dining solo or just have a wide-roaming palate.