Set along a narrow pedestrian lane in the upper part of Varenna, Il Cavatappi is an intimate spot with just seven tables set amid arched ceilings and stone walls, as opera plays quietly in the background. The cooking is outstanding, with creative twists on regional recipes.
Hence Como trout with asparagus sauce (also served as a smoked tartare), orecchiette with Sicilian pesto and lamb stew with Sardinian pasta. Reserve ahead.