Ironically, it's lake-fish specialities that pack the menu at 'the Little Pony', a Slow Food eatery set on Varenna's quay. Among the highlights are crostoni topped with a fish and calvados pâté; ravioli filled with lavarello (white fish) in a creamy radicchio sauce; and a risotto of perch, Parmesan, butter and sage.
The restaurant also organises a special evening featuring a 40-minute boat trip (during which you sip complementary prosecco), a lakeside stroll and a waterside, candle-lit four-course dinner (€75).