The street profile isn’t a knockout and the interior isn’t particularly exciting either, but a quick opinion poll of local tastes will reveal that Stornella is the dark horse of Stresa restaurants. Traditional Italian food is given a creative spin here with red potato gnocchi in Gorgonzola sauce, orecchiette with rabbit ragù and a proper ‘vegetarian corner’ featuring quinoa and other such noncarnivorous delicacies.
Sharp service by mature, professional wait staff adds to an air of quiet sophistication.