Rovello 18

Take heart from the dresser stacked with venerable bottles of Barolo as you enter this unpretentious osteria (tavern). It’s an indication of the smart, unfussy, quality food that Michele de Liguoro serves up. Fried polenta with salami or artichokes and shrimp precede plates of homemade pasta with guanciale (pork cheek) and baked rabbit. The latter pairs nicely with the Barolo.