Probably in the top five of Lombardy gastronomic restaurants, hillside Vecchia Malcesine is at once creative, fun and very, very tasty. The Michelin-starred menu (propped up by superb lake views) is exquisitely presented using the likes of trout with horseradish, smoked caviar and white chocolate, or fake tomato (we won't ruin the surprise).
Seven-course tasting menus (€95) focus on earth or sea ingredients, or you can go à la carte with intriguing dishes such as spaghettoni gin tonic with red prawns. The dessert offerings are similarly sublime.
The restaurant is well signposted, but hard to find. Don't try to drive to the gates as you'll get stuck in the narrow lanes.