Tucked away in the hamlet of Maggiana, signposted 3km uphill from lakeside Mandello del Lario (home to the legendary Moto Guzzi motorcycle manufacturer), an eatery that has appeared in countless Italian good-food guides could hardly be better disguised. The post office, bar and tobacco store also has a modest dining room situated off to one side, filled with dark timber tables.
In the summer months, lake fish dominates the menu. Try the perch risotto. Just behind the restaurant is a medieval watchtower, where they say Holy Roman Emperor Frederick Barbarossa stayed in 1158 – too soon for him to try the risotto.