Tavernetta Ai Lumi

Housed in what was palazzo stables in the 18th century, this old-world tavern with peeling racing-green paintwork and a market-fuelled kitchen on Trapani's main pedestrian street is as enchanting inside as out. Snag a candlelit table between exposed red brick and sparing arches to feast on fish couscous, caserecce al pesto trapanese (tube-shaped pasta with crushed almonds, garlic, basil and tomatoes) and a shoal of fresh seafood.