L’Arco dei Cappuccini

If you demand your seafood ridiculously fresh, reserve a table at this superlative local favourite. The crudo antipasto makes for a showstopping prologue, followed by beautifully balanced dishes like fettuccine cernia (pasta with grouper) and an earthy pasta con le sarde (spaghetti with sardines, raisins, pine nuts and fennel) in which every ingredient sings. Service is kind and gracious.