Osteria Sveva

Away from the main tourist maelstrom, Taberna Sveva occupies a quiet corner of Ortygia. On warm summer evenings the outdoor terrace is the place to sit, with alfresco tables set out on a tranquil cobbled square in front of Syracuse's 13th-century castle. Flavours are old-school Sicilian, so expect plenty of tuna and swordfish and some wonderful pasta. Slow Food recommended.