If the idea of budget seafood usually sets alarm bells ringing, think again. This welcoming portside trattoria is one of the few places you can feast on delicious fresh fish and still get change from €20. What's served depends on what the boats have brought in.
Tasty staples to look out for include pasta con le sarde (with sardines, fennel, breadcrumbs and raisins) and grilled calamari. Don't miss the gossamer-light ricotta ravioli for dessert.