Per Bacco

Hidden in the alleys of Stampace is this friendly restaurant, with stone walls, cheek-by-jowl tables and a refined, low-key atmosphere. Chef-owner Sabrina allows ingredients to shine in her simple, seasonally focused dishes. Start with, say, stewed octopus and creamed potatoes, and follow up with a primo such as fregola sarda ai sapori di mare (semolina pasta with seafood).