La Renella

Watch pizza masters at work at this historic Trastevere bakery. Savour the wood-fired ovens, bar-stool seating and heavenly aromas of pizza, bread (get the casareccia, crusty Roman-style bread) and biscuits. Piled-high toppings (and fillings) vary seasonally, to the joy of everyone from punks with big dogs to old ladies with little dogs. It's been in the biz since 1870.