Vecchia Roma

Monti, Esquilino & San Lorenzo


It's not at all unusual to see groups of locals queuing outside the door to this century-old basement favourite – the rock-bottom prices, convivial atmosphere and tasty food ensure that it is usually full to the gills. The pizzas are good, but the standout dishes are the flambé pastas – opt for the spaghetti alla parmigiana or the bucatini all'amatriciana. Cash only.


Lonely Planet's must-see attractions

Nearby Monti, Esquilino & San Lorenzo attractions

1. Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II

0.11 MILES

Laid out in the late 19th century as the centrepiece of an upmarket residential district, Rome’s largest square is an ill-kempt grassy expanse, surrounded…

2. Trofei di Mario

0.14 MILES

These ruins are the remains of a monumentally grandiose fountain built by emperor Alexander Severus to mark the end of an aqueduct. This principle of a…

3. Chiesa di Sant’Eusebio

0.17 MILES

This small church, set back off the square, is popular with pet owners who bring their animals to be blessed on St Anthony’s feast day (17 January).

4. Chiesa di San Martino ai Monti

0.23 MILES

This was already a place of worship in the 3rd century, when Christians would meet in what was then the home of a Roman named Equitius. In the 4th century…

5. Palazzo Merulana

0.27 MILES

Housed within the splendidly restored Palazzo Merulana, this impressive museum exhibits artworks sourced from the Elena and Claudio Cerasi Foundation (the…

6. Basilica di Santa Prassede

0.27 MILES

Famous for its brilliant Byzantine mosaics, which have been preserved in their original state, this small 9th-century church is dedicated to St Praxedes,…

7. Chiesa di Santa Lucia in Selci

0.32 MILES

The small Chiesa di Santa Lucia in Selci is a convent church devoted to the 4th-century martyr St Lucy. It dates to some time before the 8th century, but…