Tram Tram

Monti, Esquilino & San Lorenzo


Taking its name from the trams that rattle by outside, this old-style trattoria is known as a Slow Food hub. A family-run affair, its kitchen mixes classical Roman dishes with seafood from Puglia in Italy's sultry south. Taste sensation tiella riso, patate e cozze (baked rice dish with rice, potatoes and mussels) is not to be missed. Book ahead.


Lonely Planet's must-see attractions

Nearby Monti, Esquilino & San Lorenzo attractions

1. Fondazione Pastificio Cerere

0.15 MILES

A former pasta factory that hung up its spaghetti racks in 1960 after 55 years of business, this is now a contemporary art hub, with regular shows in the…

2. Cimitero di Campo Verano

0.25 MILES

The city’s largest cemetery dates from the Napoleonic occupation of Rome (1804–14), when an edict ordered that the city’s dead must be buried outside...

3. Basilica di San Lorenzo Fuori le Mura

0.34 MILES

One of Rome’s four patriarchal basilicas, San Lorenzo Fuori le Mura (St Lawrence Outside the Walls) has an unusually restrained interior. It was the only…

4. Porta Maggiore

0.49 MILES

Porta Maggiore was built by order of the Emperor Claudius in AD 52. Then, as now, it was a major road junction under which passed the two main southbound…

5. Museo Nazionale degli Strumenti

0.66 MILES

This little-known museum behind the church of Santa Croce stands on the site of the former home of St Helena. It’s undeservedly but refreshingly deserted,…

6. Chiesa di Santa Croce in Gerusalemme

0.69 MILES

One of Rome’s seven pilgrimage churches, the Church of the Holy Cross in Jerusalem was founded in 320 by St Helena, mother of the emperor Constantine, in…

7. Trofei di Mario

0.76 MILES

These ruins are the remains of a monumentally grandiose fountain built by emperor Alexander Severus to mark the end of an aqueduct. This principle of a…

8. Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II

0.79 MILES

Laid out in the late 19th century as the centrepiece of an upmarket residential district, Rome’s largest square is an ill-kempt grassy expanse, surrounded…