Osteria Qui se Magna!

Monti, Esquilino & San Lorenzo


As Roman as it gets, this is a small, spartan neighbourhood eatery complete with gingham paper tablecloths and a couple of outside tables. The food is hearty, home-cooked fare, such as coda alla vaccinare (oxtail stew).


Lonely Planet's must-see attractions

Nearby Monti, Esquilino & San Lorenzo attractions

1. Museo Nazionale degli Strumenti

1.1 MILES

This little-known museum behind the church of Santa Croce stands on the site of the former home of St Helena. It’s undeservedly but refreshingly deserted,…

2. Chiesa di Santa Croce in Gerusalemme

1.13 MILES

One of Rome’s seven pilgrimage churches, the Church of the Holy Cross in Jerusalem was founded in 320 by St Helena, mother of the emperor Constantine, in…

3. Porta Maggiore

1.22 MILES

Porta Maggiore was built by order of the Emperor Claudius in AD 52. Then, as now, it was a major road junction under which passed the two main southbound…

4. Cimitero di Campo Verano

1.39 MILES

The city’s largest cemetery dates from the Napoleonic occupation of Rome (1804–14), when an edict ordered that the city’s dead must be buried outside...

5. Fondazione Pastificio Cerere

1.42 MILES

A former pasta factory that hung up its spaghetti racks in 1960 after 55 years of business, this is now a contemporary art hub, with regular shows in the…

6. Basilica di San Lorenzo Fuori le Mura

1.43 MILES

One of Rome’s four patriarchal basilicas, San Lorenzo Fuori le Mura (St Lawrence Outside the Walls) has an unusually restrained interior. It was the only…

7. MURo

1.54 MILES

This isn't so much a museum as a collection of murals dotted around the Quadraro neighbourhood in the city’s southern suburbs. Works by nearly two dozen…

8. Triclinium Leoninum

1.55 MILES

This showy brick facade adorned with a gold apse mosaic is an 18th-century reconstruction of the end wall of the banqueting hall in the original Palazzo…