Owner Sergio Esposito hard at work at his legendary stand at the Mercato Testaccio, Mordi e Vai.

©Alexandra Bruzzese/Lonely Planet

Mordi e Vai

San Giovanni & Testaccio


Come at lunchtime and you'll have to elbow your way through the crowds at Sergio Esposito's critically acclaimed market stall. What they're coming for is traditional Roman street food and the stall's signature panino con l'allesso di scottona (bread roll filled with tender slow-cooked beef).