An outside view of cafè Linari in Testaccio.

©Alexandra Bruzzese/Lonely Planet

Linari

San Giovanni & Testaccio

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A part of the neighbourhood furniture, this long-standing cafe-pasticceria has the busy clatter of a good bar, with excellent pastries, splendid coffee and plenty of raucous banter. There are a few outside tables, ideal for a cheap lunch (pastas and mains €5.50), but you’ll have to outfox the neighbourhood locals to get one.

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