Trattoria al Gatto Rosso

Unsurprisingly, seafood is the thing at the Red Cat. Relaxed and unpretentious, its heavy tablecloths, deep wine glasses and solid cutlery set the scene for full enjoyment of dishes such as spaghetti with local clams and slow-cooked swordfish with eggplant caponata (sweet-and-sour vegetable salad). Rooms at Gatto Rosso's adjacent Baylon Guesthouse are stylish and colourful and include an excellent breakfast.