Paglionico Vini e Cucina

This long-established Barese osteria (casual tavern) features no menu, just a chalkboard displaying what's cooking that day. It's all salt-of-the-earth Pugliese cuisine, with seafood at the fore – the riso, patate e cozze (oven-baked rice, potatoes and mussels) is particularly good. Service can be mediocre though, and it's expected diners will have three or four courses. Check before ordering.