Trattoria Amatulli

The cheerily cluttered interior of this excellent trattoria is papered with photos of smiley diners, obviously put in the best mood by dishes like orecchiette scure con cacioricotta pomodoro e rucola ('little ears' pasta with cheese, tomato and arugula). Wash it down with the surprisingly drinkable house wine, only €5 a litre. It won't add much to an invariably reasonable bill.