Biancomangiare gives the classic trattoria a subtle modern makeover, its vintage photographs and pale-blue wooden chairs mixing it with low-slung filament bulbs, sophisticated stemware and courteous service. The menu itself offers respectful, produce-driven takes on Italian classics, from octopus salad with black olives and a confit-tomato concassé, to standout polpette al ragù napoletano (meatballs in tomato sauce) served with bitter local greens.
For a satisfying prologue, order the Bancomangiare, a trio of tasting-sized antipasti.
