It might be a little overpriced, but few Neapolitan restaurants match the sophisticated ambience of this softly lit fine-diner, its booths peopled by well-tailored professionals and Loren lookalikes. The focus is on freshness, lightness and subtlety, from the vibrant insalatina di astici e gamberi (lobster-and-shrimp salad) to the standout tempura-style baccalà (salted cod) stuffed with provola (provolone) and friarielli (bitter greens).
The wine list is suitably compelling, with around 600 options, including unexpected New World standouts. Book well ahead, especially on weekends.