Opposite the Calata Porta di Massa ferry terminal, this two-level gourmet supermarket stocks a wide range of quality Italian edibles, from artisan pasta, cheese and cured meats, to local fish, vegetables and wood-fired breads. The upstairs wine shop offers a dizzying selection of vini from across the country, while the ground-floor bar is a handy spot for coffee and a pastry.
If you're feeling reckless, try the girella, a rich, chocolatey take on the cinnamon scroll.