Spruced-up with retro-style tiles and vintage-style lamps, this perennially popular stalwart serves unfussed, soul-coaxing Neapolitan grub. Standout dishes include a killer genovese (pasta with a slow-cooked lamb, tomato and onion ragù), with secondi (mains) ranging from earthy salsiccia e friarielli (pork sausage with Neapolitan bitter greens) to coastal classics like frittura gamberi e calamari (fried prawns and calamari).
If there's still room to move, conclude with the rum-soaked babà. Go early; no reservations.