Trattoria da Oscar

Behind Piazza Matteoti, in the heart of the old town, this tiny vaulted dining room is run by a young, friendly team and attracts a loyal local crowd. The town's famed anchovies dominate the small menu; there's also excellent gnocchi with pesto, seafood spaghetti and grilled swordfish. There are some lovely laneway tables. Reserve ahead. Cash only.