At the wonderfully esoteric osteria of the ‘four breasts’, you can pull up a pew (literally, an old church pew) and enjoy yet-to-be-exported Italian gems such as tripe and beans, horsemeat steak and sweet desserts smeared with alcoholic custard. This is a slice of gritty unwrapped Italy where service is fast, prices cheap and rough-hewn tables are spaced only centimetres apart.
Beloved by locals, it’s riotously popular during its two-hour opening window but doesn’t take reservations. Arrive early and be prepared to queue.
It's easy to miss – look out for the cobbled alley (Vicolo Nazione) leading off Via Cavour. Cash only.